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Gambia Vibes · Destinations · Wildlife

Chimpanzees disappeared from The Gambia more than a century ago. Today around a hundred of them live wild again, on a cluster of islands in the middle of the Gambia River. They are the descendants of orphans rescued from the pet trade and laboratories, returned to the forest by one family over more than four decades. You cannot walk among them. But from a boat, in the early morning, you may see one watching you from the trees.

An orphanage that became a population

The story begins at Abuko. In 1969 Eddie Brewer, director of The Gambia's wildlife department, and his daughter Stella Brewer started an animal orphanage there. Among the animals brought to them were young chimpanzees, taken from the wild in other countries and sold as pets or to research. They could not stay in Abuko for ever, and they could not simply be released, because they had never learned to live in a forest.

In 1979 Stella Brewer founded the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project and moved the chimps to the Baboon Islands in the new national park. Over the years she and the primatologist Janis Carter taught them what their mothers would have: what to eat, where to find it, how to recognise danger. Janis Carter's own time on the island, living with the chimps, became one of the legendary stories of primate conservation.

Stella Brewer died in January 2006 and is buried at the project's camp on the river. Janis Carter stayed on as project manager. Today about a hundred chimpanzees live in four groups across three islands, most of them born wild.

Hippos, crocodiles and birds

The chimps are the stars, but the river is full of life. A few hippopotamuses live in this stretch of the river. They have become rare in The Gambia, and seeing one is a real privilege. Keep your distance: hippos are among the most dangerous animals in Africa, especially around boats. Nile crocodiles bask on the banks, monitor lizards slide into the water, and baboons, green monkeys and red colobus move through the riverside trees. For birdwatchers, the river forests are superb.

How to visit

• Base: Kuntaur on the north bank, or Janjanbureh and the lodges along the river.
• Boat trips: run along the channels next to the islands, without landing. Two to three hours is usual.
• Best time of day: early morning or late afternoon, when the chimps are most active and the heat is bearable.
• Best season: November to February. See the best time to visit.
• Combine with: the Wassu Stone Circles, a short drive from Kuntaur.
• Bring: binoculars, a hat, water, repellent, and a waterproof bag for your phone.
• Insist on life jackets before the boat leaves.

Parks with honest rules

It is refreshing to find a wildlife site in West Africa where the rule is "look, don't touch", and where the rule is actually kept. In Ghana the same principle should apply at Kakum and Mole National Park, where elephants and visitors share the same ground. See also Kenya's national parks.

Sources: River Gambia National Park. Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project. Pan African Sanctuary Alliance, CRP.

Gambia Vibes · Part of the Ghana-Net network · Updated and fact-checked: 6 November 2026